Exfoliation is key to achieving clear, smooth, and radiant skin, but not all exfoliants are created equal. The two main types of chemical exfoliants—AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids)—each work differently to target specific skin concerns. Let’s clear up the differences between AHAs and BHAs and help you figure out which one is best suited for your skin type and what you're looking to achieve. Whether you're dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, or sensitive skin, or you simply want to enhance your glow, understanding these exfoliants can be transformative.
What are AHAs and BHAs?
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are water-soluble acids that work on the surface of the skin, helping to exfoliate dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and smooth the skin's texture. They're ideal for dry, sensitive, or pro-aging skin.
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deep into pores and exfoliate from within. This makes BHAs a great choice for oily, acne-prone skin.
Key Types of AHAs and Their Benefits
- Glycolic Acid: Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid is the smallest and strongest of the AHAs. While it deeply exfoliates, this AHA can be unpredictable in the skin due to its small molecular size. It can cause irritation and inflammation long-term.
- Lactic Acid: Sourced from milk or fermented vegetables, lactic acid is more hydrating and gentle than glycolic acid. It’s great for sensitive skin, skin brightening, and mild exfoliation without causing irritation.
- Mandelic Acid: One of my favorites for clients, mandelic acid is a gentle AHA derived from bitter almonds. It’s effective for sensitive skin, acne-prone individuals, and treating hyperpigmentation without irritation.
- Citric Acid: Found in citrus fruits, it helps brighten and even out skin tone. It’s usually paired with other AHAs to improve skin radiance.
- Tartaric Acid: Derived from grapes, it helps smooth the skin and boosts other AHAs' efficacy by balancing the skin’s pH.
Types of BHAs and Their Benefits
- Salicylic Acid: The most common and well-known BHA, derived from willow bark. It’s often used for acne and oily skin as it penetrates pores to dissolve oil and exfoliate from within. Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties.
How Do They Differ?
The main difference between AHAs and BHAs lies in their solubility. While AHAs work on the surface to exfoliate dead skin cells, BHAs penetrate the pores to target oil and breakouts. If you're trying to decide which to use, consider booking a consultation with me where we will go over in detail your skin type and main skin concerns.
Benefits of Using AHAs and BHAs
Using chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs offers a wide range of skin benefits, including:
- Exfoliation: AHAs and BHAs help to slough off dead skin cells, leaving your skin looking brighter and smoother.
- Improved Texture and Tone: With regular use, these acids can smooth rough skin, fade dark spots, and even out your complexion.
- Reduced Acne: BHAs penetrate deep into the pores to clear out sebum, which can lead to fewer breakouts over time.
- Pro-Aging Effects: AHAs stimulate collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while both AHAs and BHAs improve overall skin texture.
- Increased Product Absorption: Removing dead skin cells allows other skincare ingredients, like Vitamin C, retinol, and hyaluronic acid, to absorb more efficiently.
Pairing AHAs and BHAs with Other Ingredients
To maximize results, pair AHAs and BHAs with other beneficial ingredients:
- Niacinamide: Helps calm inflammation and improve the skin’s barrier function.
- Retinol/Retinoids: Enhances cell turnover, reducing fine lines and improving skin texture when used in conjunction with AHAs or BHAs.
- Humectants like Hyaluronic acid, Glycerin, & Aloe: Helps to hydrate the skin, counteracting any dryness caused by exfoliation.
Incorporating AHAs and BHAs into Your Routine
Both AHAs and BHAs can be found in a variety of skincare products, including toners, serums, cleansers, and even masks.
AHAs are often used in daily exfoliating toners or overnight treatment serums that promote glowing skin. For example, if you're dealing with hyperpigmentation, a mandelic acid serum, like Bion’s 8% Mandelic Serum, might be your best bet to improve dark spots and brighten your complexion. Bion’s Mandelic 5% Toner Pads are another excellent option to remove bacteria, control sebum production, clear pores, and help control acne.
BHAs, particularly salicylic acid, are commonly found in cleansers and spot treatments aimed at clearing breakouts. If you have acne-prone or oily skin, using a BHA cleanser or toner daily, like Hale & Hush Clear Future Toner, can help keep your pores clear and reduce breakouts.
Explore all my skincare products here, and feel free to book a consultation with me to find the best routine for your skin type.
Conclusion
Whether you’re looking to reduce acne, smooth out your skin, or brighten a dull complexion, both AHAs and BHAs offer incredible benefits when incorporated into your skincare routine. Understanding how they work and what’s best for your skin type can help you achieve glowing, healthy skin.